Sunny white-sand beach at Hāpuna with turquoise water, palms and sunbathers under a blue sky

Best Area to Stay on the Big Island

Kona and Kohala are dry and sunny, Hilo and Volcano are wet and green, and the drive between them is two hours.

4 bases · A week or two, in two bases

Photo: Ekrem Canli, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Big Island is the one Hawaiian island where "which beach town" is the wrong first question. The island is bigger than the others put together, the west side is dry and the east side gets Hilo's rain, and the two sides are about two hours apart by road. Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park is 95 miles from Kailua-Kona (2 to 2.5 hours) and 30 miles from Hilo (45 minutes). Where you sleep decides how much of your holiday you spend in a car.

This page compares four bases: Kailua-Kona, the Kohala Coast resorts, Hilo and Volcano. The honest answer for most people is not one of them but two. Sleep on the west side (Kona or Kohala) for the beaches and the sun, then move for two or three nights to Hilo or Volcano for the national park, the waterfalls and the Mauna Kea side. A single base on the west works if the beach is the point and you accept day trips of four to five hours for the volcano. Use the 5 Days in the Big Island guide for what to do from each base.

Where to Stay in the Big Island: the Bases

The towns people stay in: the sea, the beach, the evenings, and the shops in each, and the catch.

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A green sea turtle and two snorkelers above the reef in Kahaluʻu Bay
Photo: Vlad & Marina Butsky, CC BY 2.0

Kailua-Kona

Best for: The west-side base: calm water, the sunset and the best choice of restaurants

Sea
Leeward and calm in the morning, with the swell strongest in winter. Kahaluʻu Bay to the south is the sheltered snorkel.
Beach
Small sheltered Kamakahonu by the pier; the better beaches are Kahaluʻu south and Hāpuna north. Lava shore in town.
Evenings
Aliʻi Drive's restaurants and bars face the sunset, and the manta tours leave from nearby. Lively but easy.
Shops
Supermarkets, pharmacies and ATMs in town. Groceries cost more than on the mainland.

Kailua-Kona is the second-largest settlement on the island and the biggest on the west side, with about 20,000 people, so it is the one base here with real choice: supermarkets, a Costco, restaurants and tour operators. The airport is about 8 miles (13 km) and 20 minutes away. Kahaluʻu Bay is 6 miles south and the Kohala beaches are 30 to 45 minutes north. The catch: it is a harbor town, not a beach resort, volcanic haze (vog) can drift over the coast when Kīlauea is active, the nearest big white-sand beach is half an hour off, and Hilo is 77 miles (124 km) and close to two hours away. It suits a first visit, snorkelers and anyone who wants the island's west side with a car but without a resort.

Spencer Beach with a white lifeguard tower, tall trees and children playing on the sand
Photo: Robert Linsdell from St. Andrews, Canada, CC BY 2.0

Kohala Coast

Best for: A beach-first stay near Hāpuna, with the resorts

Sea
Leeward and sheltered from the trade winds; open bays such as Hāpuna get a shore break in high surf.
Beach
Wide white sand at Hāpuna and Kaunaʻoa, with showers and lifeguards; Hāpuna charges visitors 5 + 10 USD.
Evenings
Resort restaurants and quiet nights; Waimea and Hāwī are 30 to 40 minutes away.
Shops
Resort shops and a few stores at Kawaihae and Waikōloa; shop for groceries in Kailua-Kona or Waimea.

The Kohala Coast is a string of resorts (Waikoloa Beach, Mauna Lani, Mauna Kea and Hāpuna) built on black lava with white-sand beaches between them. It is the right base if you want to walk to the sand, and it puts Hāpuna and Spencer within a short drive. It is also the base furthest from everything else: Kona is 26 to 32 miles away (45 to 50 minutes), Hilo is 69 to 73 miles (close to two hours) and the volcano park about 90 miles. The catch: resort prices and nights that are quiet by design. Plan on driving to Kona or Waimea for groceries.

A palm-lined seawall walk beside Hilo Bay on a clear day
Photo: AlaskaDave, CC BY-SA 3.0

Hilo

Best for: The east-side base for the waterfalls, the market and the volcano

Sea
Windward and wet; the breakwater calms Hilo Bay, but waves and rain are frequent on this side.
Beach
No resort beach: Richardson Beach Park to the east has black sand and rocks for snorkeling on calm days.
Evenings
A quiet small city that goes to bed early; downtown has a few good restaurants and the bayfront.
Shops
Supermarkets, pharmacies and ATMs, with the best groceries and the farmers market.

Hilo is the largest settlement on the island, about 44,000 people, and the county seat, so it has normal shops, a hospital and a market. It is also the closest town to Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park (30 miles, about 45 minutes) and the easiest base for ʻAkaka Falls, the Hāmākua coast and Mauna Kea. The catch is the weather: the 30-year normals for the airport show 120 inches of rain a year, with 10 to 19 days a month wet enough to count. It does not feel like a beach holiday, and the sea is cooler and less clear than on the west.

A rainbow over the black lava floor of Kīlauea Iki, with a rock cairn in the foreground
Photo: Heath Cajandig, CC BY 2.0

Volcano

Best for: Staying at the park for the eruption glow and an early start

Sea
Four thousand feet up with no sea; the coast is an hour away by car.
Beach
None. The nearest black sand is Punaluʻu, close to an hour away.
Evenings
A tiny village of lodges and a few early-closing cafes. The glow over the crater is the nightlife.
Shops
A small store, gas and a post office; bring groceries from Hilo.

Volcano Village is a small settlement of about 700 people in cool, wet forest at the edge of the park, at about 4,000 feet. Hilo is 27 miles (43 km) away. It is the base for sunrise and night at Kīlauea, and for the park's trails without a 45-minute drive each way. The catch: the nearest sea is far away, it rains in every month and most heavily from November to April, evenings are cold, and with only a few places to eat you plan dinner. It suits two or three nights, not a week.

Beaches and Walks in the Big Island

Six beaches and two walks that fill a normal day on each side. Lifeguard cover differs a lot between them, so check on arrival.

Beaches

Beaches in the Big Island
BeachSurfaceDepthShadeCrowdsKids
Kahaluʻu Beach Park
Near Kailua-Kona
Lifeguarded and full of turtles; keep 10 feet (3 m) away. Non-residents pay for parking.
Sand and rock; sharp rocks at the entrySheltered bay, use the channel by the towerA pavilion, otherwise bring an umbrellaBusy; the lot fills earlyOnly strong swimmers; snorkelers need ocean experience
Kua Bay
Near Kailua-Kona
In the state's Kekaha Kai park, 8am to 6:30pm. Visitors pay 5 USD (4 EUR) each plus 10 USD (9 EUR) per vehicle, card only.
White sandPounding shorebreak in swellBring an umbrellaBusy on weekends and holidaysNo lifeguard; waves over 3 feet are for experts
Anaehoʻomalu Bay (A-Bay)
Near Kohala Coast
Free public parking; restrooms and showers at the south access.
Sand beside the Waikoloa resortsCheck the day's conditions on siteBring an umbrellaModerate; resort guests and day visitorsNo lifeguard on the state list; watch children closely
Hāpuna Beach
Near Kohala Coast
Open 7am to 7:30pm. Visitors pay 5 USD (4 EUR) each plus 10 USD (9 EUR) per vehicle, card only.
Wide white sandGentle in calm weather, shorebreak in high surfBring an umbrellaBusy, most of all around middayYes in calm weather; waves over 3 feet are for experts
Spencer Beach Park
Near Kohala Coast
Next to Puʻukoholā Heiau. Whales are visible offshore in winter.
Soft golden sandA reef shelters it; calm water is not a guaranteeTall trees and grassy picnic areasParking fills on weekends and holidaysYes, with an adult in the water at all times
Richardson Beach Park
Near Hilo
Free lot. Turtles rest on the sand; the water is cooler and less clear than in Kona.
Black sand, hot in the afternoonA lava breakwater shelters the swim zonePicnic tables, little natural shadeThe lot fills at sunset with localsFairly calm; lifeguards daily from 9:30am to 4:45pm

Walks

Walks in the Big Island
WalkSurfaceShadeCrowdsKids
Kīlauea Iki Trail
Near Volcano
Check trail closures with the park the night before.
Rim path, then a cooled lava crater floorRainforest on the rim, none on the craterBusy; go earlyYes for fit children, a half-day walk
Nāhuku (Thurston Lava Tube)
Near Volcano
The tube is lit from 8am to 8pm in normal times.
Paved path and a lit lava tubeFern forest, coolBusy; go early or lateYes, easy for all ages

A Normal Day in the Big Island

A day in the middle of a 10-day stay in Kailua-Kona starts early, because the Kona side is clearest and calmest in the morning. You drive to Kahaluʻu Bay (14 minutes) for a snorkel before the lot fills, rinse off, and have lunch from a market or a plate-lunch place back in town. The hot hours go to the pool or a coffee farm up the slope, away from the beach heat. In the late afternoon you can swim again or walk the harbor front, and the sunset is on Aliʻi Drive, with dinner within walking distance. On a Kohala day the pattern shifts: a long morning at Hāpuna, lunch at the resort, the afternoon in the shade of the trees at Spencer. Every day to Hilo or the volcano costs most of the day in the car, which is why the split stay exists.

Practical

When to come, and the everyday things for a longer stay in the Big Island.

Weather and crowds by month in the Big Island
MonthAirSeaCrowds
Jan81°F27°C79°F26°CModerate
Feb81°F27°C77°F25°CModerate
Mar82°F28°C77°F25°CBusy
Apr82°F28°C79°F26°CModerate
May84°F29°C81°F27°CQuiet
Jun86°F30°C81°F27°CModerate
Jul86°F30°C81°F27°CBusy
Aug88°F31°C82°F28°CBusy
Sep88°F31°C82°F28°CQuiet
Oct86°F30°C82°F28°CQuiet
Nov84°F29°C81°F27°CModerate
Dec82°F28°C79°F26°CBusy

Average daily highs and sea temperature. Air: NOAA 1991-2020 normals, average daily high at Kailua-Kona (Keahole Airport), on the dry west side. Hilo is a different climate: the same normals give about 120 inches (3,050 mm) of rain a year at Hilo airport against roughly 10 inches at Keahole, and Hilo highs run about 3 to 4 F lower. Sea: NOAA tide station at Kawaihae, monthly means of 2023 to 2025; the Hilo side is cooler.

Shops

Kailua-Kona has the choice: KTA on Palani Road, Safeway on Henry Street, Costco and Walmart, plus ABC stores on Aliʻi Drive. The Kohala resorts have a Foodland Farms at Mauna Lani and Island Gourmet in Queens' MarketPlace at Waikōloa, both pricey; Waimea has the larger Foodland and a KTA, about 30 minutes from the coast. Hilo has the supermarkets and the farmers market, open daily, with longer hours on Wednesday and Saturday. Volcano has two small general stores and a store at Kīlauea Military Camp, so stock up in Hilo.

Pharmacy and health

Kailua-Kona and Hilo have the pharmacies and the hospitals: Kona Community Hospital in Kealakekua and Hilo Medical Center both have emergency rooms, and North Hawaii Community Hospital in Waimea serves the Kohala side. Volcano has no pharmacy, so bring what you need. Call before you drive any distance for a prescription.

Getting there and around

Almost everyone flies into Kona (KOA), about 8 miles (13 km) and 20 minutes from Kailua-Kona and 30 to 40 minutes from the Kohala resorts, or into Hilo (ITO), 3 miles from town. Rent a car. Distances by road: Kona to Hilo 77 miles (about 2 hours), Kona to the park 95 miles (2 to 2.5 hours), Waikōloa to the park 90 miles (2 hours via Saddle Road), Hilo to the park 30 miles (45 minutes), Kona to Hāpuna 32 miles (about 50 minutes). The county Hele-On bus is fare-free for everyone through 2028, but it runs a few times a day on long routes, so it does not replace a car. Fly into one airport and out of the other if you split the stay, and price the one-way fee.

Food

On the west side, most people eat out at least once a day on Aliʻi Drive or in the resorts, and self-cater breakfast and lunch from a supermarket. In Hilo the farmers market and small local places cost less than the resorts. In Volcano, book dinner or eat at the lodge; the village is quiet by 8pm. Groceries cost more than on the mainland everywhere, and most in the resorts.

Staying in the Big Island: FAQ

Which is the best area to stay on the Big Island?

For a first trip, Kailua-Kona: it has the most restaurants and shops, calm morning water and the airport 20 minutes away. Choose the Kohala Coast only if the white-sand beach is the point of the trip and you accept resort prices. Add two or three nights in Hilo or Volcano for the national park.

Is it better to stay in Kona or Hilo?

Kona is sunny and dry with the beaches, Hilo is green and rainy with the waterfalls and the closest drive to the volcano, about 45 minutes against 2 to 2.5 hours. If you can only pick one, pick Kona for a beach holiday and Hilo for a nature trip, and plan day trips for the rest.

Should I split my stay between the west side and Hilo or Volcano?

Yes, if you want the volcano and the beaches in one week. Driving from Kona to the park and back is a long day, and the park is at its best at dawn and at night. Two or three nights in Volcano or Hilo is the usual compromise, with a one-way rental car and an open-jaw flight if the prices work.

How far is the volcano from the west side?

From Kailua-Kona, the park is 95 miles and 2 to 2.5 hours by the south route. From Waikōloa it is about 90 miles and 2 hours via Saddle Road. From Hilo it is 30 miles and 45 minutes. Plan a day of driving, not a stop.

Do I need a car on the Big Island?

Yes. The island is large, the bus runs a few times a day, and none of the beaches or trailheads in this guide are reachable without a car. Book it with your flights.

Is the Kohala Coast worth the money?

It is worth it for the sand and the calm resort pace if you spend most days on the beach. It is not worth it if you want to see the island, because everything else is 45 minutes to 2 hours away. Many people stay a few nights there and the rest in Kona or Hilo.