Ask anyone in Amsterdam about Maastricht and they'll tell you it hardly feels Dutch. They're right. The city sits at the bottom of a narrow strip of the Netherlands squeezed between Belgium and Germany, closer to Brussels and Cologne than to the North Sea, and for most of its history it wasn't run from The Hague at all. From 1204 to 1794 it had two masters at once, the Prince-Bishop of Liรจge and the Duke of Brabant, whose place the Dutch Republic took after 1632, and it was besieged so often that its walls, gates and tunnels are still everywhere. People here speak their own dialect, eat rich Burgundian food, and treat lunch as an event.
It's also one of the oldest towns in the country. The Romans built a bridge over the Maas here, and the name comes from it: Trajectum ad Mosam, the crossing of the Maas. Saint Servatius, an early bishop, was buried here in the 4th century, and his church still stands on the main square. Under the hill south of town, centuries of limestone quarrying left a maze of tunnels where people hid from armies and, in World War II, the Dutch hid Rembrandt's Night Watch.
Maastricht is small, so this plan uses it as a base. Day one is the Vrijthof and the old center, day two the old walls, the Jeker quarter and the caves of Sint Pietersberg, day three Valkenburg and the green hills of South Limburg, day four Aachen across the German border, and day five the Maas, Wyck and the modern Cรฉramique district. Liรจge, Tongeren and the three-country point come after day five. For the bigger picture, see our page on the Netherlands.