Saudi Arabia's desert oasis of tombs, inscriptions and sandstone, where nearly everything is a tour, a time slot and a sunset.
Photo: Ahmad AlHasanat, CC BY-SA 4.0
AlUla is a small oasis town sitting in a bowl of red sandstone cliffs, and for roughly 2,000 years it has been a place people passed through on the way to somewhere else. Kingdoms called Dadan and Lihyan ruled here before the Nabataeans, the people of Petra, carved their tombs into the cliffs at Hegra. Later the Damascus to Mecca pilgrim road ran through town, and the Ottomans laid the Hejaz Railway past the tombs. In 2017 the Saudi government set up a Royal Commission to turn the valley into a tourist destination, and it shows.
Know this before you book: AlUla is curated. Hegra, Dadan, Jabal Ikmah and the Old Town fort are visited on official guided tours with fixed slots and tickets, and you can't just wander in. It's polished, expensive at the top end, and short of budget beds. In return the landscape is extraordinary, the nights are dark, and the sunsets are an event. Three days is the right length: the three big tours take about two hours each, and the rest is viewpoints, meals and evenings.
The plan: day one is the Old Town, the oasis and a sunset from the Harrat Viewpoint, day two is Hegra, the mirrored Maraya and Elephant Rock, and day three is Dadan, Jabal Ikmah and the night sky. Start on a Wednesday, so dinner at Maraya Social lands on a night it's open. Most people fly in from Jeddah or by way of Riyadh, and the plan assumes a rental car. For the basics, see Saudi Arabia.
Every stop from the plan below, colored by day. Pick a day to see its route.
A guided walk through the mudbrick Old Town, a long lunch, the palm oasis and a plaza coffee, then sunset on top of a volcanic ridge.
The Nabataean tombs by morning tour, lunch and the mirrored hall in Ashar Valley, then the elephant at sunset.
Sunrise in a balloon if it's flying, then the lion tombs and the open-air library of inscriptions, a Saudi lunch and the darkest sky in the valley.
Everything until late afternoon is within minutes of the Old Town, so a midday flight still fits. The trap is parking: cars can't enter the Old Town. Leave 35 minutes for the drive to Harrat Viewpoint.
Locals call the old walled town al-Dirah. The Royal Commission dates the settlement to the 12th century, though other sources put its building in the 13th, much of it from stones taken from the older Dadanite and Lihyanite ruins. It sat on the incense trade route and on the pilgrim road from Damascus to Mecca, and at its height more than a thousand houses stood shoulder to shoulder, their backs forming the town wall. A fort on the ridge, dated to around the 10th century, looks down on all of it.
Take the guided Old Town tour, with morning and afternoon departures daily from the Old Town Visitor Centre. It's the way up to the top of the fort, and the guide, a rawi (storyteller), explains the alleys. Afterwards walk Old Town Market Street, a free lane of shops, and look next door at AlJadidah, the newer quarter turned arts district, with murals and what is billed as the world's largest hand-painted carpet.
Tofareya is the Old Town's traditional Saudi restaurant, priced a notch below the hotel dining rooms: the listing rates it one or two dollar signs. It's open daily, and walk-ins are welcome.
Order what the staff recommend from the Saudi menu and finish with Arabic coffee and dates. Joontos on day three is the dressier version of the same food.
The reason AlUla exists is the green you pass on the way to Dadan: about 2.3 million date palms and 200,000 citrus trees watered by springs under the sand, with herbs, barley, figs and olives growing in their shade. The oasis produces more than 90,000 tonnes of dates a year, and it fed every caravan that came through.
Walk or drive along the lanes between the Old Town and Dadan. In season the oasis has harvest weeks: dates in September, citrus around early January, and the Peregrina tree in early December. A guided twilight walk from the Old Town to the oasis, 90 SAR (24 USD, 21 EUR), runs for part of each winter (2026: 30 Oct to 12 Dec).
The plaza is a local gathering spot with cafes, playgrounds, the preserved AlUla railway station and a farmers' market. The market is the point: AlUla citrus, dates, date syrup and local snacks to take home.
Siyal Cafe serves takeaway Arabic coffee, tea and sweets from 17:00 daily, which clashes with the sunset drive, so save it for another evening.
Harrat Viewpoint sits on the edge of a volcanic ridge, Harrat Uwayrid, at 1,219 meters. It looks down over the oasis, Dadan, the Old Town and the valley, and it opens at 14:00 so you can be there well before the light turns. Sunset falls around 17:40 in mid-November and December and 18:00 by mid-January.
There's sofa seating and fire pits for when it cools after dark. Entry is free, no booking, open until 22:00.
Right at the viewpoint, Pizza Bar IOI is a wood-fired Italian restaurant: pizza with leopard-spotted crusts, handmade pasta and salads, with the valley lights spread out below. It's the lowest-effort dinner of the trip, not the most local one. If you want Saudi food tonight, eat at Tofareya instead.
The big day runs north and east, 20-30 km from the Old Town. Hegra tours have limited seats, so book as soon as your dates are fixed, and pick an early slot.
Hegra, also called Mada'in Salih, "the cities of Salih", is Saudi Arabia's first UNESCO World Heritage Site, listed in 2008. The Nabataeans, the Petra people, made it their second city in the 1st century AD under King Aretas IV, and more than a hundred tombs are cut straight into its sandstone outcrops. It survived because it was left alone: a dry climate, no resettlement, and a reputation as a cursed place, because the Quran places the Thamud people, who rejected the prophet Salih, in this area. The Ottomans built a fort here in the 1740s-50s, and the English traveler Charles Doughty lived in it for two months in 1876. The Hejaz Railway ran through in 1901-08, and the Bedouin living among the tombs moved north after the site was declared archaeological in 1972.
The only way in is a tour. Self-driving isn't allowed, and you can't enter the tombs or touch the engravings. The standard option is the Hegra Day Tour, a shared coach with a guide in English or Arabic, which stops at sites such as Jabal Ithlib, Jabal Banat, the Tomb of Lihyan, Son of Kuza, and the Diwan hall, reached by a narrow rock corridor that recalls Petra's Siq. The premium option is a private 4x4 with a driver, guide and ranger, good value for four to seven people. A wildlife safari in an open vehicle costs 150 SAR (40 USD, 36 EUR).
From Hegra it's about 25 minutes to Ashar Valley, the canyon where AlUla's luxury camps stand. Ashar Deck at Our Habitas is the casual one, a lounge serving juices, coffee and lighter food from 07:00 to midnight, in the middle of the red rock.
Non-guests need a booking to pass the gate, so reserve a table.
Maraya means "mirror", and the building does what the name promises: a concert hall entirely covered in mirrored glass, which in Ashar Valley seems to melt into the canyon wall and reappear as you move. Gio Forma, a Milan studio, designed it, and it set a Guinness World Record as the largest mirrored building on 26 December 2019.
It's a working venue with a 500-seat concert hall that hosts international and Arab stars. The 45-minute Maraya Tour, daily and year-round, takes you inside to the performance spaces. Photograph it from outside as the afternoon light changes.
Jabal AlFil, Elephant Rock, is a 52-meter sandstone block with a trunk and legs that wind, rain and sand have been carving for millions of years. The surrounding sandstones formed some 540-485 million years ago and were pushed up about 30 million years ago, as the Red Sea began to open. The site is open daily from 16:00 to midnight, 16 km northeast of the Old Town, and lit after dusk. A wooden path leads from the car park. Arrive an hour before sunset and take a seat by a fire pit. Food trucks sell burgers and coffee from 16:00 to 23:30, and there's a shisha cafe. Climbing is banned.
Maraya Social sits atop the mirrored building, with a menu by the chef Jason Atherton: modern European with some Arabic touches. It's the most expensive dinner in this guide.
Reservations are required. It isn't open every night, and listings disagree on the days: Wednesday to Saturday dinner is the pattern most of them give, one shows only Wednesday and Thursday. That's why the plan starts on a Wednesday, so this dinner falls on a Thursday.
The Dadan and Jabal Ikmah tour is one two-hour coach trip from Winter Park, so plan around its slot. Balloons fly only in festival weeks; skip that stop if none are up. Gharameel is an hour out, so book it first.
Balloons in AlUla come with the festivals, not every morning. The Skies Festival brings AlUla Skyrise, where 30 balloons rise together over Hegra. Guests are collected from select 4- and 5-star hotels between 04:30 and 08:30 and flown for about 60 minutes. Takeoff sites change daily with the wind.
2026: Skyrise runs 6-15 Nov at 990 SAR per person, advance booking only, by 16:00 the day before, age 6 and up. The same dates have a tethered balloon at AlManshiyah Plaza, 100 SAR (27 USD, 24 EUR), 20 minutes up to 50 meters, walk-ins only in the evening, and a glow show on 6-7 Nov at Hegra and 13-14 Nov at Elephant Rock, 30 SAR (8 USD, 7 EUR). Outside festival weeks, ask your hotel what is flying.
Dadan is older than Hegra by centuries. It was the capital of the Dadan and Lihyan kingdoms more than 2,000 years ago, a stop on the Incense Road, and the biblical Dedan. The last Babylonian king, Nabonidus, took it with Tayma and Medina around 552 BCE, and the Lihyanites ruled for about four centuries after.
The big sight is the Lion Tombs, graves cut into the cliff with seated lions carved beside them; reports say the fragile lions are viewed through installed binoculars from about 170 meters. A trilingual exhibition of more than 100 artefacts is open to tour-ticket holders, and you see the excavation site. Leave your car at Winter Park, where a coach takes you to the Dadan Visitor Centre.
About 10 minutes' drive from Dadan, the sandstone canyon of Jabal Ikmah holds the largest concentration of ancient inscriptions in the region, which is why people call it AlUla's open-air library. Travelers stopped here from the first millennium BCE, on their way along the incense road, and scratched in names, prayers, scenes of animals and musical instruments. The inscriptions are mostly from the second half of that millennium and matter to scholars because they show Old Arabic languages evolving. Jabal Ikmah went on the UNESCO Memory of the World Register in 2023.
You see the carvings with a guide, and it's the most intimate site in AlUla: no tombs, no towers, just people writing on rocks. A free guided Leonid meteor shower night is held here (2026: 15 Nov).
Joontos is the restaurant of Dar Tantora, a heritage hotel in the Old Town, serving modern Saudi food in an open courtyard, from a Michelin-starred chef. Its operator says it won a Bib Gourmand in the first Michelin Guide Saudi Arabia, in October 2025: good food at fair prices, not a tasting-menu splurge.
Kabsa and mandi are on the menu, along with a date lamb rack and flatbreads, and a milk pudding, mahalabia, to finish. The jareesh and saleeg you may have read about are not on it, which is the honest reason to also try Tofareya.
DarkSky International has certified AlUla as an International Dark Sky Park. The best-known stargazing spot is Gharameel, about an hour out of town among tall vertical rock pillars. Tours typically include dinner and a guide who points out constellations, sometimes with telescopes.
Around the full moon the evening turns into a moonlit walk, and it doesn't run every night, so book ahead and check the moon calendar. A free alternative is Stargazing at AlUla Fort in festival weeks (2026: 6-7 and 13-14 Nov).
What didn't fit: two sites that aren't ready, a rail station, an ancient oasis and the holy city.
The Ottomans built the Hejaz Railway in 1901-08 to link Damascus with Medina, with a maintenance station just north of the Hegra tombs. Reports say the restored buildings are locked, so treat it as a photo stop.
Getting there: About 25 km north of the Old Town, near Hegra
An oasis town that goes back to the second millennium BCE, with a massive ancient wall. The Babylonian king Nabonidus made it his base for campaigns in northwest Arabia in the 6th century BCE. A long day for a quiet site; go if ancient inscriptions are your thing.
Getting there: About 185 km northeast of AlUla by road, around 2.5 hours
Islam's second holiest city lies south. It's generally reported as open to non-Muslims, with the Prophet's Mosque and its Haram for Muslims, but accounts differ, so ask your embassy or Visit Saudi first. Its airport, with Tabuk's, is the alternative gateway to AlUla.
Getting there: About 340 km south by road; Experience AlUla says three to four hours, but routing software suggests about 5, so plan for a long drive
The Valley of the Arts is planned as a permanent open-air contemporary art destination, with monumental works by artists from around the world. Experience AlUla lists it as not yet open to the public. The Desert X AlUla exhibition has used it during the Arts Festival.
Getting there: In the AlUla desert north of town; not yet open to the public
Official websiteA protected area of 1,500 square kilometers of red-rock canyons, named one of the World's Greatest Places by TIME in 2024, where Arabian wolves, gazelles, ibex and ostriches are protected. Four-hour tours were paused for summer and are listed as coming back; check booking first.
Getting there: North of AlUla; guided 4x4 or hiking tours operated by Masarat
Official websiteAlUla's food scene is split between expensive resort dining rooms and a few places serving Saudi food. Alcohol is illegal throughout Saudi Arabia, so the drinks are coffee, tea and juice.
Saudi Arabia's national dish: spiced rice with chicken or lamb, flavored with cardamom, cinnamon and dried lime.
Where to try it: Joontos at Dar Tantora serves it in a modern setting; Tofareya in the Old Town is the cheaper traditional option.
Tender meat and rice cooked in a pit oven, a dish from Yemen loved across Arabia.
Where to try it: Joontos lists chicken mandi at 90 SAR (24 USD, 21 EUR). Ask at Tofareya whether it's on the day's menu.
Cardamom coffee in tiny cups with dates on the side, the cornerstone of Saudi hospitality.
Where to try it: Siyal Cafe on AlManshiyah Plaza from 17:00 for the coffee; the farmers' market nearby for AlUla dates and date syrup.
A milk pudding, the usual end to a meal.
Where to try it: Joontos, 35 SAR (9 USD, 8 EUR).
Crushed wheat cooked slowly with meat and yogurt into a creamy porridge, a Najdi comfort food from the center of the country. Rare on tourist menus here.
Where to try it: Not on the Joontos menu. Ask at Tofareya, or at a desert camp dinner; some camps serve it.
The oasis grows 200,000 citrus trees: oranges, grapefruit, lemons and kumquats, with a citrus week in early January.
Where to try it: The farmers' market at AlManshiyah, or fresh-squeezed juice at any cafe.
Wild honey from the valleys, made by generations of local beekeepers. The honey season runs in May.
Where to try it: The AlManshiyah farmers' market; expect it to be pricey and good.
A crisp fried pastry with a savory filling, served as a starter.
Where to try it: Joontos has a beef sambusa at 35 SAR (9 USD, 8 EUR).
Hotels are few, mostly luxury, and spread out.
Best for: Walking to the Old Town, Tofareya and Joontos
The heritage hotel Dar Tantora sits in the Old Town, with Joontos and Tofareya nearby. The catch: winter-peak prices, and the other sights are 20-30 minutes away.
Best for: Luxury tented camps, silence and sunsets
Banyan Tree, Habitas and Ashar Tented Resort stand among the canyon walls, near Maraya. The catch: about 25 minutes from Hegra and 20 from the Old Town, with dining mostly in the resorts.
Best for: Waking up beside the tombs
The Chedi Hegra is the resort in the Hegra area, with Nasim Hegra as its contemporary Levantine restaurant. The catch: it's far from town and listed in the top price tier.
Best for: Travelers on a budget
Budget and mid-range rooms are few. Farm cabins about 35 minutes from the center exist; one, the Red Mountains Farm Resort, was listed as cash only. Luxury rates can top 1,000 USD a night in winter, against about 300 USD in midsummer.
Pinpoint: click each country on the world map - inside the border for full points, the closer the more you earn.
The practical stuff that makes the first day in AlUla easier.
The UK government (advice updated 27 October 2026) advises against all but essential travel to Saudi Arabia, and all travel within 10 km of the Yemen border. It reports Houthi missile and drone attacks since July, a heightened threat to airports, ports and energy sites, and a missile strike on Riyadh's airport on 10 October. AlUla isn't among the named locations, but flights via Riyadh or Jeddah can be delayed or canceled. Read your own government's page and check your insurance.
From 25 Oct 2026 to 27 Mar 2027, Saudia flies daily from Jeddah. From Riyadh, Saudia connects via Jeddah or Gassim with a bus leg, and flynas flies six days a week with a Gassim bus transfer included. Qatar Airways flies three times a week. Schedules change, so check. Otherwise fly to Medina or Tabuk and drive.
Visitors from 63 countries, including the US, UK and EU, can apply for a one-year multiple-entry eVisa (visa.visitsaudi.com) for stays of up to 90 days. Fees change, so use the official portal. Passport validity of 6 months is expected.
Hegra, Dadan, Jabal Ikmah and the top of the Old Town fort are open only with official tours and limited seats. Book at experiencealula.com. Cancellation is free up to 3 days before, with no refunds on the day.
Women don't need an abaya or a head covering, but everyone dresses modestly, shoulders and knees covered. Unmarried couples can share a room, AlUla's tourism authority says. Alcohol is illegal, and so is bringing it in. Tourists can't fly drones.
The Saudi riyal (SAR) is pegged at 3.75 per US dollar. Cards are widely accepted, but some shops take cash only. Round up as a tip. Buy an STC SIM; remote areas have little or no signal. Sockets are UK type G.
Rent a car at the airport or in town, with your national license and an international driving permit. The Hop-on Hop-off shuttles from Winter Park are listed as coming back soon. Airport taxis are limited; the Darb AlUla app handles rides in town.
Nights fall to single digits and sometimes near freezing, so bring a jacket and hat for sunsets and stargazing. The Saudi weekend is Friday and Saturday, and some places pause for prayer. Ramadan 2027 should start around 8 February; visitors needn't fast but shouldn't eat or drink in public by day.
Yes. The three big tours take about two hours each, and the rest is viewpoints, meals and sunsets. Add a fourth day only for Sharaan or a long drive to Tayma or Medina.
No. Self-driving isn't allowed. Join the coach tour from 95 SAR or the private premium 4x4 at 1,000 SAR a vehicle. You can't enter the tombs.
November to March. Summer is too hot for outdoor tours. Winter at Tantora (2026-27: 17 Dec to 9 Jan) and the Ancient Kingdoms Festival (2026: 26 Nov to 12 Dec) are the busiest weeks.
The UK advises against all but essential travel to Saudi Arabia (updated 27 October 2026), citing missile and drone attacks, with airports a named risk. Check your own government's advice and your insurance.
Practically, yes. The sights are 20-30 km apart, the shuttles are paused and airport taxis are limited. Hire a car, with or without a driver. The Hegra and Dadan tours themselves ride on coaches.
Fly. Saudia has daily flights from Jeddah this winter, and from Riyadh you connect via Jeddah or Gassim. Driving is about 700 km from Jeddah and over 1,000 km from Riyadh.
In festival weeks, yes. In 2026 the Skies Festival (6-15 Nov) has a 30-balloon dawn flight over Hegra at 990 SAR and a tethered balloon at 100 SAR. No daily service is listed.
Yes. Citizens of 63 countries, including the US, UK and EU states, can get a one-year eVisa at visa.visitsaudi.com for up to 90 days. Check the portal for fees.
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