Hanoi has been a capital since 1010, when the emperor Ly Thai To moved his court here and named the city Thang Long, the "ascending dragon". Dynasties, French boulevards, American bombs and the socialist decades all left something behind, and most of it still stands within a few kilometers of one small lake: an 11th-century university, a French opera house, a prison that held both Vietnamese revolutionaries and American pilots, and a mausoleum with a queue. Hanoi doesn't separate its layers, it lets them pile up.
It's loud and humid, and the traffic never stops. It's also where several of Vietnam's best-known dishes were born, within walking distance of your hotel. Five days is the right amount: two for the lake, the Old Quarter and the French Quarter, one for Ba Dinh and West Lake, one on the water at Ha Long Bay, and one for the sights outside the center.
The plan keeps each day in one part of town. Start on a Tuesday: the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum is open only Tuesday to Thursday and on weekends, in the morning, and the Museum of Ethnology is closed on Mondays. The bay falls on a Friday, and day five lands on a Saturday, when the streets around Hoan Kiem Lake close to traffic. Traveling in January? Read the tips on weather and on Tet, the lunar new year, which in 2027 starts on 6 February. For the country as a whole, see Vietnam.