Kopaonik was a mining mountain long before it was a ski mountain. Medieval Saxon miners worked the ore here, and old sources call the range Srebrna planina, the Silver Mountain. The botanist Josif Pančić loved the plateau so much that he is said to have wished to be buried on it, and since 1951 the highest point, Pančićev vrh at 2,017 m, has carried his name and his mausoleum. The ski resort grew on that same plateau, and today it is the biggest in Serbia.
Think of it as a very big, very sociable intermediate's mountain. Most of the 49 numbered runs on the operator's list are easy or medium, there are a handful of black ones, and the real appeal is the routine: a late breakfast, a long lunch in a hut, a floodlit run after dark and dinner in a kafana with a band. Five days is the right length for a ski week, because the resort divides neatly into four sectors and a rest day keeps your legs alive for the last one.
This plan works sector by sector. Day one is the centre around Konaci, Pančićev vrh and Karaman greben. Day two goes east to Duboka and Krčmar, day three north to Jaram, Gobelja and the steep Gvozdac, and day four is the easy day for a mixed group, ending on the gondola from Brzeće. Day five leaves the skis behind for snowshoes, a village below the mountain and a hotel spa. Arrive on a Sunday, ski Monday to Thursday when the lift queues are shortest, and keep Friday for the rest day. If you are coming from the south or the capital, Belgrade and Niš make good bookends, and Vrnjačka Banja is the spa town to recover in. Serbia's other big mountain resort is Zlatibor.