5 Days in Livigno

The Mottolino gondola is the way up the east side: a newer gondola with heated seats, 1.9 km long, arriving at around 2,400 m. At the bottom you will find the Mottolino headquarters with the ticket office, rental shop, ski school desks and a free car park, plus a bus stop and the Ski Link shuttle.

The area has 27 runs (6 blue, 16 red, 5 black) and eight lifts with a combined capacity of 15,740 skiers an hour, which keeps queues short. Buy the pass online and collect it from a machine to skip the ticket office.

Take the six-seat Valfin chairlift to Monte della Neve, which tops out at 2,708 m. This is the high point of the Mottolino side and where the long run begins: Mottolino calls it the longest slope of the area, with an 875 m drop and more than 5 km along a ridge, past the M'Eating Point hut and through woods to the lower gondola station.

On the way, the Autostrada (2.5 km, 570 m of drop) and the Delle Cime (2.3 km) are the long cruising runs from the top, and make a good warm-up for the sharper runs lower down.

The Monte Sponda chairlift is an eight-seater that arrives at 2,569 m, the first lift of its kind in Lombardy. It serves the Sponda FIS run, 1.65 km long with a 445 m drop and an average gradient of 27%, where, according to Mottolino, the best international teams train.

Race training closes slopes at short notice, so ask at the chairlift before you go. If it is open, it is a steady run for a first check of your legs.

Lunch is at the M'Eating Point, the Mottolino lodge at the top of the gondola and the Yepi chairlift. The ground floor is self-service with starters, soups, salads, mains and desserts, the first floor is a pizzeria serving what the lodge calls Giovanni's pizzas, and an outdoor grill sits on the first-floor terrace.

It is reached from the blue runs and the beginner area, so mixed groups can all meet here. You can also come up without skis by gondola or the Yepi chairlift.

Camanel di Planon is Mottolino's other mountain hut, the lively one. Every day at lunchtime the Freak'n'Tonic group puts on a dance and music show, and the terrace stays busy into the afternoon. It sits at the top of the Teola chairlift, one of the two Ski Link points.

Come for a drink and a walk through the show rather than a long meal.

The way home is the Mottolino run, number 3, 1.95 km with a 565 m drop to the gondola base. Giorgio Rocca, number 26, is steeper at 1.3 km with an average gradient of 34%. It carries the name of the slalom skier who lives part of the year in Livigno and won the 2006 World Cup slalom title. It is for the strongest skiers on the mountain, so take it only if the snow is good.

The Amanti run, 2.3 km at an average gradient of 18%, is the easy way through woods for beginners and tired legs.

Kosmo is Mottolino's restaurant at the foot of the gondola, one of the five Livigno places listed in the Michelin Guide. The cooking is seasonal and local, with big windows over the village lights. Dinner starts at 19.00 and the restaurant is closed on Thursdays.

Upstairs is La Téa del Kosmo, a five-table tasting menu by chef Michele Talarico, by reservation only. Book Kosmo itself on the first evening.

The Carosello 3000 gondola goes up in two stages: number 11 from 1,884 m to 2,232 m, then number 12 up to 2,749 m. The lower station is the San Rocco base, and the village gondola, Livigno Centro, also feeds the mountain, so you can choose your entry. At the top you have the Livigno valley on one side and the untouched Federia valley on the other.

Free parking sits next to both gondola bases, and the free shuttle bus runs through the whole town.

The Altavista chairlift reaches 2,797 m, the highest skiable point in the whole resort. From the top, the Femminile run starts smooth and gentle and then steepens, and at the bottom it joins Zuelli so you can ski down in one go.

It is a good first run of the day, and the Femminile is one of the steeper runs on the mountain.

Zuelli is the run Carosello builds its image around. With Blesaccia it takes you from the top of the mountain nearly to the valley floor: Zuelli alone is 2.6 km long with an 865 m drop, an average gradient of 28% and a famous steep final section at 50%. It is graded black.

Blesaccia runs next to it for the first part and is graded red. If you want an easier route to the bottom, the 3.4 km Centrale is the long red run: wide at the top, then it follows a road through the forest after the mid-station.

The Federia chairlift tops out at 2,755 m and serves a side valley with the runs Slalom, Magu, Federia and Gessi. All of them face north, so the snow lasts. Slalom often has a giant slalom course open to everyone, and between Magu and Federia is the Freeride Academy, a patch of fresh snow where you can try off-piste safely.

Gessi is the black run here, with a steep lower wall that can be skipped by joining the lower Federia slope. Real off-piste outside the marked areas is unmarked and unmonitored, so check the avalanche forecast first.

The refreshment centre at the top of the gondola is the biggest and highest mountain restaurant in the resort. The top terrace has a bar, a self-service restaurant and a pizzeria-snack bar, and is open from 8.30 to 16.00. The lower terrace is La Stuvetta, an à la carte restaurant open from noon to 3 pm with fresh pasta, a traditional wooden room (stüa) and a wine cellar of the local winery Nino Negri.

It is the place to sit in the sun, and non-skiers can reach it with a Sunpass.

Stalet at the bottom of the San Rocco gondola is the biggest après-ski bar in the resort. DJs and bands play every day from early afternoon, and when the sun goes down a retractable roof closes over the crowd. It is also a steak house and pizzeria, with burgers, pizza and grilled meat, open from 8.00 to 22.00.

Boots are allowed inside, but it is easier to dance in trainers. If you leave the car in the car park, take a taxi home.

On Tuesday nights at 9 pm the Scuola Sci Centrale instructors have raced a parallel slalom at Campo Scuola in recent winters, with a night show around it and mulled wine for the audience.

Campo Scuola is on the village side of the valley, near the Livigno Centro gondola, so it is a short bus ride from the San Rocco side.

The Snow Park is the freestyle heart of Livigno and the Olympic venue: big air, halfpipe, slopestyle, ski cross, snowboard cross and parallel giant slalom were held here in February 2026. Mottolino's old park, near the Trepalle chairlift, was an 800 m strip with more than 60 features in M, L and XL lines.

The tourist board still lists the Mottolino Snowpark, while Mottolino says the old park closed after 2025/26 and a new Livigno Snowpark replaces it. Whether it is open to the public this winter was not published, so ask at the Mottolino headquarters. If it is closed, ski the Mottolino runs in the morning and cross to The Beach early; the day works either way.

Trepalle is the old village above the park, a frazione of Livigno that is often called the highest village in Italy, with its church at the Passo d'Eira at 2,209 m. The name means three balls in Italian, possibly a mistake for trevalle, three valleys: Val Trela, Val di Foscagno and Vallaccia.

It is also part of the duty-free zone, and the northern part of the village by the Eira Pass is one of the main skiing areas.

The Ski Link is a shuttle that joins the two sides without waiting at bus stops. The south line runs from the Teola and Pianoni Bassi lift to the Carosello 3000 gondola, the north line from the Mottolino gondola to the Valandrea and Botarel lift. It runs every day in winter from 9.30 to 16.00 every 10 minutes.

This is how you can ski Mottolino in the morning and Carosello in the afternoon on one pass.

The Beach is the Carosello 3000 snowpark, at the top of the San Rocco gondola beside the 250 m Baby chairlift. It is an easy park with a palm-tree theme and a shark, built for learning and for a relaxed day with friends. At its foot is the Surfer's House.

Just below the top is the Kids Cross, a 1,700 m family run with 22 berms, 8 bumps, two hoops and five funny structures, suited to every level.

The second Olympic venue was the Livigno Aerials & Moguls Park at Carosello 3000, the first venue ready for the Games, inaugurated on 11 December 2024. It hosted moguls, dual moguls and aerials. The tourist board names Mikaël Kingsbury and Eileen Gu among the champions who competed in the valley, and says 26 Olympic titles were awarded across the two venues.

Whether the course can be skied or watched from the piste this winter was not published. Ask at the top of the gondola.

The Fat Cat is a Prinoth snowcat turned into a street food kitchen that parks at a different spot in the ski area every day. It serves sandwiches with different meats, sausages and dressings, with live rock music and games. It is not gourmet and does not pretend to be.

Il Cenacolo on Via Saroch 569 is a restaurant of the Tas'T local food project, listed by the tourist board with typical and Mediterranean cooking. It opens daily for lunch from 12.00 to 14.30 and dinner from 18.30 to 22.00 and takes bookings.

Order the valley's own dishes, such as pizzoccheri or sciatt, if they are on the menu.

Campo Scuola is the village school area, with a chairlift and a mini lift in the middle of the village. Next to the slopes there is a kindergarten fun park with baby lifts and magic carpets, where qualified instructors teach children. The Kinder Park Lupigno beside Campo Scuola has a tubing track, adventure trails and inflatables, at 15 EUR a day or 10 EUR for the afternoon.

Scuola Sci Centrale is the main ski school. For more confident beginners, the Yepi area at Mottolino has fun slopes for children and a run that passes a real plane.

The Livigno Centro gondola, an eight-seater, rises from the village to Tagliede at 2,016 m. A second gondola continues to Costaccia at 2,358 m. These lifts are run by SITAS and are covered by the same Skipass Livigno, with first rides at 8.00 and last at 16.30.

This is the side of the area closest to the center, and the SITAS runs were not affected by the Olympics.

The Valandrea-Vetta chairlift tops out at 2,708 m on the north side. It is the high point of the SITAS lifts, the top of the north side.

Goloseria Galli is a bakery and sweet shop on the Tas'T list, the project that keeps the valley's own food in hotel breakfasts and shops. The traditional sweets are bisc'cöt da Livign, a biscuit, and the cakes tórta da Rosina and tórta da l'indoménia.

Livigno's cross-country track runs 30 km from the Forcola and Alpe Vago area across the whole valley floor, groomed and sunny, and often starts a few meters from your door. There are no gates or restricted entry points, so you join from wherever is closest. The technical ring at the Marianna Longa stadium is nearly 5 km.

Last winter a day ticket cost 12.50 EUR for adults, plus a 5 EUR deposit for the card, sold at the sales point near the Nordic Skill Center on Via Isola or at the Info Point in Piazza del Comune. The track opens when snow allows.

On chosen Thursdays Mottolino takes diners up to Camanel di Planon by snowcat. You board at Sponda, get a welcome drink and a four-course dinner where you pick one of four options per course, and a DJ plays through the evening. Kosmo is closed on Thursdays, so this is the natural plan.

Adults pay about 90 EUR and children 50 EUR, and booking is required. In December, and on any Thursday without a dinner, book Il Cenacolo from day three, open daily for dinner, or pizza at Stalet.

With a Sunpass for the San Rocco gondola you can reach the Carosello 3000 huts at 2,797 m without skis. From the top of the gondola, an easy walk on groomed snow follows green signs and has views over the Livigno valley and the untouched Federia valley. The round walk takes about 30 minutes and 900 m, the longer one with a viewpoint about 50 minutes and 1,600 m.

The walk ends at the mountain hut, where you can have a hot drink or lunch. Dogs are welcome and free in the gondola.

MUS! fills an 18th-century wood and masonry house that the municipality bought in 1987 and has been a museum since Christmas 2015. You walk through the courtyard (córt), cellars, the paneled rooms (li sc'tua) and a kitchen with a fireplace, and the idea is to understand why people stayed at this altitude and how they lived off it.

The free app has an audio guide with three voices, one of them a little ermine called Lorina, and guided tours can be booked.

Concordia on Via Plan 114 is a grill, bar and bistro that the tourist board lists as typical, Mediterranean and steak house cooking. It opens for lunch from 12.00 to 14.00 and dinner from 18.30 to 21.00, and takes bookings on 0342 990200. It is part of the Tas'T project.

The Latteria di Livigno is a cooperative of 25 small dairy producers who process milk from cows that graze on alpine pastures in summer. Visitors can see the workshops, the small museum of old farm equipment and an audio-guided tour, and taste products at the coffee bar or the terrace. It is open daily from 8.30 to 18.30.

The tour ends with a small tasting bag with some of the dairy's products.

Via Plan is the shopping mile of the village. Livigno is a non-customs zone, so there is no Italian VAT on goods, and the tourist board lists petrol, cigarettes, alcohol, perfumes, cameras, computers and leather as the categories that are cheaper. Income tax is still paid, so it is not a tax haven.

The catch is the way out. Leaving toward the rest of Italy, you pass the Guardia di Finanza checkpoint at Passo Foscagno. Per person over 17 you can take out 200 cigarettes, 1 litre of spirits of 22% or more, 4 litres of still wine and 16 litres of beer. Other goods are allowed up to 300 EUR per person over 15 (150 EUR under 15). Fuel is limited to the normal tank and one approved container of up to 10 litres.

Aquagranda is one of the largest sports and wellness centers in Europe, with 10,000 square meters and an Olympic Preparation Center status since October 2022. The Alpine Wellness area has a salt-water pool, a Turkish bath, a bio sauna, a Finnish sauna at 90 degrees for Aufguss rituals, a cold well with ice and heated outdoor tubs looking at the mountains.

The Slide&Fun water park next door suits families, and the AQ1816 pools include a 50 m pool added in 2023. The 2.5-hour Alpine Short Break ticket was 46 EUR, shown at 41 EUR in the online shop in October 2026.

Camana Veglia on Via Ostaria 583 is one of the five Livigno restaurants in the Michelin Guide, with the guide's price category Special occasion and the cuisine listed as Modern Cuisine. It is the right place for the last dinner if the other nights were huts and grills.

The other Michelin entries are Stua Noa Fine Dining, Kosmo Taste the Mountain, La Téa del Kosmo and Al Persef.