Val Gardena is a 21 km valley that was already on the map in the year 999, when a duke gave a stretch of woodland called Forestum ad Gredine to the Bishop of Freising. The name, Grรถden in German and Gherdรซina in Ladin, means fence. Behind that fence sit three villages in a row: Ortisei (St. Ulrich in German, Urtijรซi in Ladin) at 1,236 m, Santa Cristina (St. Christina) at 1,428 m and Selva (Wolkenstein, Sรซlva) at 1,563 m. Above them stand the Odle, the Sassolungo and the Sella massif, all part of the UNESCO Dolomites.
This is one of the few places in Italy where Italian is not the home language. Ladin, a Romance language that goes back to Roman times, is the mother tongue of over 90% of the valley's people, and it is taught in school next to Italian, German and English. The food is closer to Austria than to Rome, the woodcarvers have been at work since around 1600, and the ski area is the biggest in what the valley calls the world's largest ski carousel. Five days is the right length for four hard ski days and a slow fifth on the valley floor, and that is what this plan does.
The days follow the mountain, not the villages: day one Alpe di Siusi, day two Seceda and La Longia, day three a lap around the Sella massif, day four the Saslong and the Sassolungo side, day five Ortisei and Santa Cristina off skis. It suits anyone who can ski a red run, and each day says what changes in summer. Start on a Monday: the Museum Gherdรซina is closed at weekends, so day five lands on a Friday, when the Paratoni farm serves dinner. The rest of the country is in the Italy guide, but the rules and the food here are South Tyrol's, not Rome's.